As symbols of empowerment and extraordinary elegance, unique watches and jewels often embrace the soul of an icon. Designed with the most refined quality and delicacy, The Panthère de Cartier and Bulgari Serprenti represent icons of style and craftsmanship, affirming the greatest elegance of unique iconic motives.
The Panther de Cartier: The Feline Legacy
It was 1914 when the panther became the greatest icon of Cartier, appearing on a watch made by the Maison, with diamonds and onyx. The efforts of one of the most visionary jewelry directors of Cartier, Jeanne Toussaint, further cemented the panther’s identity leading to the creation of further jewelry that grasped the essence of the iconic symbol, which was nicknamed by Luis Cartier himself “La Panthère”.
However, Cartier’s Panther properly gained the status of the brand’s defining emblem after 1948, when the Duchess of Windsor wore a three-dimensional brooch. Since that moment, panthers with emerald eyes have started to appear in countless forms, including bangles, rings, and the most iconic necklaces. A new reimagination of the panther was introduced in 1948, redesigning the bracelet in a more fluid way that emulates the sleek and silent movement of the animal itself.
The meaning of the most iconic Cartier symbol goes beyond the narrow aesthetic appeal. Indeed, it embraces the idea of independence and confidence in whichever version the Maison has designed until the most iconic versions, adorned by glittering feats of uniqueness.
Behind the Cartier feline symbol lies an ethical idea that is “not to imitate but to pay homage, to breathe life into the animal and bestow it with personality”.
The ratio behind it goes beyond the representation of the animal, with the aim to try to capture its feline essence, transcending its likeliness.
This research is carried out in each panther representation made by the Maison: designs may change and evolve, and materials may vary, but the house’s spirit remains unchanged. The iconic design has become the symbol of effortless sophistication since Cartier’s introduction of its first women’s timepiece adorned with panther motives with diamonds and onyx. However, it was thanks to the effort of the jewelry designer Jeanne Toussaint that Cartier’s image started embracing the soul of elegance, boldness, and strength, encapsulated in the feline figure.
The choice of this kind of design isn’t casual but rather astute: it is in line with the era’s aesthetic, where the panther was a frequently recurring symbol in art, fashion, and interior design.
Decades later it is still the most recognizable symbol of the Maison and even after the introduction of sleek and refined timepieces without further excessive embellishments, the panthère has become an instant classic.
Bulgari Serprenti: the icon of Metamorphosis
Symbol of temptation since the Garden of Eden, serpents have always embraced a dual allure, combining fearsome elements with fascination. The serpent, as a symbol, permeates myths and legends across cultures. Snaked motives were and still are deemed to be the most iconic emblems of metamorphosis and evolution.
Ancient Mythology used to present the serpent as a symbol of rebirth, suggesting the idea of seduction and, at the same time, evoking the legendary style icon Cleopatra. It was not a case, indeed, the fact that the actress Elizabeth Taylor wore the Bulgari Serpenti in the scenes of Cleopatra.
In the ancient Egypt iconography, the most prominent adornment of pharaohs’ crowns and other royal insignia was the Uraeus, which is a cobra emblem. It was deemed to be the greatest symbol of power and believed to offer protection while affirming the divine right of its wearer, the Pharaoh, to rule.
Conversely, Greek and Roman mythology recognized a strong association between snakes and the idea of healing and medicine. Indeed, the Greek God Apollo’s son, Asclepius, revered as the God of Medicine, was represented with a staff entwined with a snake. Further examples may be cited, and Medusa is certainly one, with her head full of writhing snakes in place of hair.
In the field of fine jewelry, the image of the serpent is intertwined with a long and illustrious history, becoming the symbol of eternal love when represented on a ring crafted from 18-karat gold in 1939, after Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with a bespoke serpent ring, adorned with ruby eyes, a diamond mouth and an emerald centerpiece, which reflected the birthstone of the Queen.
In the twentieth century, further distinguished jewelry houses began to reinterpret the serpent in their designs, with the remarkable necklace made by Cartier in 1968 for the Mexican actress María Félix. Encrusted with 2,473 diamonds and set in platinum, yellow gold, and white gold, adorned with pear-shaped emerald eyes and an underside of green, red, and black enamel, the snake necklace resulted in a captivating jewel that displayed a vibrant visual appeal from every perspective.
Nevertheless, Bulgari is deemed to be the brand most closely associated with snake-motive watches and jewels. The Serpenti collection encapsulates the very core and enduring allure of serpent design and is the greatest source of commercial success for the House.
Bulgari Serpenti designs have evolved with the brand and grown, becoming the very core of Maison’s soul, with the most symbolic piece, the Twirl. Using a Turbogas technique, the serpent bracelet coils around the wrist seven times. The serpent motif features a head embellished with best-quality gemstones, subtly hiding a concealed watch face. However, the very essence of the designs is the contrast of materials, elegantly juxtaposed in a way that leads to creations that align seamlessly with the refined aesthetics and bold design principles of Bulgari.
Transcending time
In today’s luxury scenario, few attributes may surpass the significance of out-of-ordinary brand heritage. The Panthère de Cartier and Bulgari Serpenti are emblematic examples. They embrace symbols steeped in tradition and destined to leave an indelible imprint in the history of jewelry, remaining steadfast in their very essence, yet perpetually evolving.
