As the seasons change and the leaves fall, the world becomes a collage of oranges and browns, and one of fashion’s most fashionable seasons is again upon us. We dig out our boots, scarves, and coats from the back of our closets to create layered silhouettes that let us stay stylish as the cold starts.
These brown suedes, cherry reds, and glossed boots somewhat echo the minimalistic trends we’ve seen in the last few years, which has the foundational philosophy that goes against everything the empire of fast fashion was built on. A minimalist fashionista does not mean someone who restricts themselves from being stylish because they feel they have to limit their purchases in the face of fear of overconsumption and only buy essential items, but approaches being fashionable in a mindful way with a capsule wardrobe that encapsulates all the essentials one could need to dress timelessly. A well-crafted blazer, a series of white-collar shirts, well-fitting jeans, and a few eclectic pieces will help you find yourself with a collection of pieces you can use to create dozens of unique looks effortlessly.
With the past decades in fashion dominated by the idea that everything is disposable under the reign of overconsumption, it seems only natural that we now gravitate towards the flip side of this coin and tend towards a cleaner, minimalist approach. Such is representative of the cyclical phenomenons we see in fashion as we move from decade to decade. From the 80s to the 90s, where the development of heroin chic was initially seen as pushback against the excess of the disco days of the 80s, or the shift at the beginning of the 20th century where all of a sudden the roaring 20s brought about a complete transformation in the type of dresses women wore, from structured dresses where the corset was a non-negotiable to obsolete with the development of bust-less flapper looks.
Yet the 80s’ ostentation was not necessarily destined to be replaced by such simplicity. On the contrary, many designers embraced provocation, adopting a grunge style with deliberately unkempt and nonchalant looks. However, during the Fall/Winter 1993 Fashion Week, Jil Sander stood out from all other designers with lines that were scandalously simple. From perfectly structured coats in neutral tones to monochromatic blazer ensembles, everything was formal, functional, and timeless. But, this basic aesthetic, far from being perceived as boring, captivated the industry. The designer herself explained: “Everyone says my philosophy is cleanness, but is that really the case? Some people say it is minimal, but I would describe it as pure.” In reality, Jil Sander was no longer just a creative director; she had become an architect. An architect of cuts that perfectly flattered women’s silhouettes without necessarily revealing their shapes. An architect of carefully chosen and assembled textiles designed to remain delicate and elegant across generations. An architect of garments whose purpose was not to be sublime but to sublimate.
This decision to design magnifying rather than magnificent clothes inspired several other designers, who chose to enhance the sensual aspect of this elegant minimalism. Such was the case for Tom Ford, Gucci’s artistic director then, who embraced a purely sexy simplicity. A rejection of any form of utilitarianism was achieved through an aesthetic incorporating slinky satin dresses, unbuttoned shirts, and rich, glossy textures.
Calvin Klein also established himself as a vital figure of this sensual minimalism, though his pieces were far less flattering than Gucci’s. Ever more streamlined, the clothes embody effortless elegance and unprovoked sensuality in simple monochrome tank tops, perfectly tailored jeans, and satin dresses. Femininity reached its paroxysm, but it was the models who carried it; the clothes simply unveiled it.
The 1990s were also dominated by the rise of the “Supers”, ushered in a new era that forever redefined the relationship between fashion and fame. Before Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Kate Moss, Claudia Schiffer, Tyra Banks, and Linda Evangelista took centre stage, the clothes, not the models, commanded attention. The Supers changed everything, infusing the fashion industry with personality and championing individuality. Their bold, carefree attitudes and distinct identities lit up runways, paparazzi snapshots, and the covers of Vogue. Off-duty, their effortless interpretations of trends became visual markers of the era, cementing their place in pop culture history. Everyone adorned Julia Robert’s black jackets, Kate Moss’ slip dresses, and the ubiquitous 90s jeans; they all seemed to embody a simple, sleek style that anyone could find in their closet and recreate. For a coffee run, the office, hopping on and off the runway, school and day-to-day life in general, this is not just a trend but a mindset anyone can adopt where elegance and simplicity reign.