A Shift in Focus
When you think of Louis Vuitton, watches are not what immediately comes to mind. Perhaps it is the classic monogrammed bags or timeless trunks but not timepieces. However, under the direction of Jean Arnault, the brand is undergoing a discrete but significant change by repositioning itself within the world of high-end watchmaking.
Who exactly is Jean Arnault? The youngest son of LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault, Jean Arnault joined Louis Vuitton’s watch division at the age of 23 as Marketing and Development Director. Just five years later, he was promoted to Director of Watchmaking. With this position, he revealed a bold new vision: to elevate Louis Vuitton’s presence in the horological world and to position itself as a true watchmaking powerhouse.
Traditionally, Louis Vuitton has been celebrated for its fashion and leather goods. Its story begins with handcrafted travel trunks by a young French artisan. Over time, the
brand’s legacy evolved through iconic bags and accessories. While watches and jewelry exist within the brand, they have never been at the forefront.
Jean Arnault saw this as an opportunity. Aware that Louis Vuitton’s watch division remained in the shadows, both within the brand and the industry, his mission became clear: to revive LV watches through technical craftsmanship, innovation, and more limited-edition collections. Though personally fond of minimalist timepieces, Arnault stated that the future of Louis Vuitton watches lies in complexity and exclusivity through design, storytelling, and horological
excellence.
Building the Change
Jean Arnault’s vision appears to have been years in the making. The evolution of Louis Vuitton’s
watchmaking department has followed a carefully thought-out plan. At the heart of this shift is a commitment to moving away from simple, fashion-forward designs and toward complex timepieces that truly embody the spirit of haute horlogerie.
As Arnault announced, the first step was changing the brand’s approach to technique. To bring this vision to life, he partnered with master watchmaker Michel Navas. Their collaboration took shape at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the brand’s dedicated watchmaking atelier located in Meyrin, Switzerland. This Fabrique has become the symbol of the new era for LV watches as the central point for research, design, and production. At La Fabrique, everything begins with the three core elements of watchmaking: the case, the dial, and the movement. Under
Arnault’s direction, each of these components is treated with the same level of attention and precision that characterizes Switzerland’s most respected maisons.
The Tambour Reimagined: The start of new models marks the beginning of a new era for Louis Vuitton
One recurring theme in the brand’s identity is the idea of historical evolution. The house often keeps the original mold but gives it a new perspective. You see this across its most iconic pieces such as the trunks or the Speedy. These are pieces that remain visually familiar but are constantly reinterpreted.
Jean Arnault applied the same mindset to one of the most significant relaunches in Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking history. In 2023, the Tambour was reintroduced. First launched in 2002, it was already an emblematic timepiece for the house. Twenty-one years later, its return carried just as much impact. “We have taken the historic code of the Tambour, like the shape of the case, but have brought it to the taste of 2023,” Arnault stated. The case remained, but everything else shifted. It became more modernized and refined but specifically redefined.
The new Tambour was designed to become the core of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking collection. It is slimmer, more balanced, and completely unisex marking the decision to create a design meant to reflect today’s taste. While Louis Vuitton does not disclose how many watches it produces, Arnault made one thing clear: the new Tambours will be made in “hundreds, not thousands.” Tambour is a watch designed for longevity, not visibility.
This more focused approach continued into 2024 with the launch of the Tambour Convergence. While the 2023 Tambour laid the foundation, the Convergence explored a more artistic and design-driven side of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking. Inspired by vintage montres à guichet and influenced by Art Deco, the Convergence feels almost like an art object rather than just a watch. It is deliberately small, delicate, and not made for practicality but for presence.
What connects both watches, beyond their shared Tambour DNA, is the movement. Both use the same in-house calibre developed by La Fabrique du Temps. That detail matters, because it shows that this is not just a collection built on design, but on a LV technical foundation that is meant to last.
So while the 2023 Tambour establishes a clear identity for Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking, the Convergence explores what else that identity can become. Once again, the mold remains but a new perspective is given.
From Maker to Mentor
Jean Arnault’s passion for watchmaking and his ambition to carve out new paths has become clear not only through design, but through the initiatives he is putting in place. One of the most emblematic is the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Created under his direction, the prize invites independent watchmakers to present their own creations, offering not just visibility but a platform for new ideas to emerge.
This is not just about finding alternative designs, it is also a way for Arnault to tap into the visions shaping the future of the industry, especially from those outside the traditional system of watchmaking powerhouses. And while it may seem like a celebration of creativity, it is also a strategic move that fits perfectly with his mindset: innovation through collaboration.
The prize itself is not just a trophy, it is an open door. Alongside recognition, the winner becomes part of a mentorship program. Arnault seems to understand that building leadership in watchmaking is not just about creating, it is also about recognizing talent, supporting new voices, and staying open to fresh ideas. That openness might just be one of Louis Vuitton’s biggest
opportunities.
What also makes this initiative stand out is the jury: a group composed of some of the most respected figures in the industry, including the director of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This prize is not just about who wins, but also about who is watching. The presence of these figures speaks volumes about the presence Louis Vuitton is setting for itself in the world of
watchmaking as not only as a creator, but as a future leader.
A Change That Is Meant To Last
Louis Vuitton’s journey in watchmaking is not a shadow, but becoming part of the brand’s core identity. Under Jean Arnault’s direction, the shift has been subtle but strategic. From the relaunch of the Tambour to the creation of the Watch Prize, everything points toward a more focused, intentional identity as one that blends technical credibility with creative ambition.
What sets this change apart is that it does not scream for attention. Arnault announced the change, but it was built quietly, through design choices, production decisions, and thoughtful collaborations. Now, Louis Vuitton is no longer just a participant in the world of horology, but a shaper of it.
Image Sources
- The New York Times, 2022, Jean Arnault
- Luxuo, 2019, La fabrique du temps Louis Vuitton
- Louis Vuitton, 2023, Louis Vuitton Watch
- Louis Vuitton, 2023, Winner Raúl Pagès with Louis Vuitton director of watches Jean Arnault
