As a proud member of the distinguished lineage of the grand Geneva tradition, Patek Philippe is committed to maintaining the time-honored techniques employed in the adornment of the timepieces for more than four centuries. The result is a range of exceptional creations — pocket watches, wristwatches, or table clocks — often one of a kind, that showcase these fine crafts on the brink of extinction, sometimes with the aid of the few specialists who still master the secrets of these skills.
Engraving
It’s a delicate process, like playing with light to create the most refined decorations in metal, and this is what makes hand engraving so special. In the delicate art of watchmaking and jewelry-making, the engraver’s work is meticulously carried out under a binocular microscope, where a high level of precision and attention to detail is paramount.
Engraving shares many similarities with free-hand drawing, though the medium is switched from paper to metal and the pencil is replaced by a burin (graver), the engraver’s primary tool. It is kept sharp, and represents a natural extension of the engraver’s hand, penetrating the material to make clean cuts or sculpt volumes.
Depending on the work to be done, the engraver will choose the most suitable tool for the job and will need to make it for a particular project.
In the case of its rare handicrafts models, Patek Philippe has a preference for engraving, as it has been known to enhance the aesthetic appeal of micro-marquetry or enamel work.
Enamel
It is thought that the magic of enamel happens in the furnace, where the material fuses with metal. Enamellers can be likened to alchemists, in that they master metal, colors, and fire to create object d’art that will endure through the ages.
Enamel is a soft material composed of various minerals and metal oxides. It is used to cover the surface of the medium by fusion to achieve a vitrified, uniform, glossy, and smooth layer.
The enameller delicately grinds the enamel into very fine grains and washes it several times to ensure the removal of any impurities. The substance is then mixed with water so that it can be applied to surfaces that have been prepared with the utmost care. At this stage, it would be advisable to ensure that any imperfections have been eliminated to achieve a uniform, clear, and smooth enamel.
Once dried, the enamel is placed in a furnace heated to over 800°C, which enables it to adhere to the metal base while becoming extremely hard and virtually unalterable. Depending on the complexity of the technique chosen, it may be possible to return an object to the furnace up to 30 times. Once finalized, enameled decorations are known for their ability to protect against oxidation, their lasting brilliance, and their enduring resistance.
Guilloché
Guilloché work is a decorative technique that, thanks to mechanical machines driven by human hands, offers the possibility of creating magnificent, very fine, and regular engraved decorations on dials, movements, cases, and bracelets, among others.
Over time, it appears that guillocheurs, or engine turners, have had the opportunity to experiment with different types of machines, adjusting as required to enhance their functionality or develop new motifs.
The crank is turned with the left hand, and the pressure of the burin (graver) is managed with the right hand. If this is the case, then the principle is to keep the latter moving so that it makes narrow grooves geometrically and repetitively.
Marquetry
During their career, a wide range of wood varieties has been built up by miniature marquetry specialists. The wood’s natural features, such as the grain pattern and the color variations, provide indeed valuable insights into the most effective ways to utilize each event in a given project.
Marquetry is a decorative technique that has been used for a long time on furniture, small wooden objects, woodwork, and cabinets. However, its use in watchmaking is relatively recent.
When marquetry experts study a landscape or the silhouette of an animal, they may imagine how they could instill life and movement into their work. They make a line drawing, which they then use to cut out the contours. The inspiration behind the pieces and the chosen patterns guides the selection of wood, which is mostly in natural colors. The wood is then cut, assembled, glued, and pasted.
Gem setting
A row of diamonds or other stones might have the potential to enhance the appearance of a watch by adding a touch of refined distinction. It is interesting to note the convergence of watchmaking and Haute Joaillerie in the art of gem setting, which requires both precise vision and a delicate touch.
Gem setting is the process of assembling and fixing stones or diamonds on a piece of jewelry or a watch. The gem setting on Rare Handcrafts watches is entirely hand-crafted by the gem setter, who does their utmost to ensure the brilliance of each stone by positioning them in the right direction with great precision and regularity. It is interesting to note that, historically speaking, many watchmakers came from the field of jewelry, and this close collaboration between timepiece makers and jewelers has continued to this day. However, it is important to acknowledge the role of gem settings in enhancing timepieces, which has letlnecessitated adjustments to align with the intricacies of watchmaking. It is thought that ultra-thin movements, new, sometimes unlikely alloys, and decorations applied to every part of the watch, from the bracelet to the dial, as well as the lugs, case middle, and bezel, all influence the choice of gem-setting techniques.
