Paris Fashion Week 2023: Debut & Take-Aways

As the Fall-Winter 2023/2024 season comes to a close, Paris Fashion Week took center stage from February 27 to March 7, according to the Festival de la Haute Couture et de la Mode calendar. While the event will see important guests’ return, some designers, such as Céline by Hedi Slimane, are noticeably absent, engaged in off-schedule shows. Vivienne Westwood’s comeback under the heir of a new designer sounds promising. Y/Project by Glenn Martens will make its debut, and Harris Reed will present a new interpretation of Nina Ricci. Daniel Roseberry returns at Schiaparelli, and McQueen returns after a three-year-long absence from PFW.

Dior & heritage

Over 50 years of beauty and elegance have passed since Christian Dior established his revolutionary Maison during Paris’ recovery from the war. Yet, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior’s current artistic director is the one reworking the brand’s legacy. Chiuri’s fall-Winter 2023/2024 collection adopted a personal and destructive perspective, re-enacting Dior’s mythological 1950s, where vintage silhouettes reworked with a touch of modernity breathe on the catwalk: bold and daring women embark on this journey. The designer is inspired by three muses: Catherine Dior, Christian’s sister, a fundamental character in his quest for creativity, Juliette Greco, a friend and client of Dior, and Edith Piaf, iconically rooted in French culture. Models wear industrial and conscious clothes, reflecting the identity of the wearer. The collection includes skirts with tight, godet pleats, tight sweaters on bare shoulders, black embroidered dresses, unstructured Bar jackets, animal prints, and elegant shoes reminiscent of a golden Hollywood reality, still far from the ruins of post-war Europe. 

YSL & elegance

The Saint-Laurent women’s collection for Fall – Winter 2023/2024 was presented in a dark and sacred setting. Anthony Vaccarello, the artistic director of the house, reflected on the meaning of elegance and what it means today. He explains that he wanted to challenge people’s ideas about the concept and its relationship to clothing. The resulting collection starts with classic YSL-style skirt suits, progressing to massive shoulders from the 80s, including velvet blazers, dry skirts, cashmere leggings, chiffon and satin blouses with open backs, and traditional tuxedos paired with simple cotton t-shirts, chunky gold bracelets, and aviator sunglasses. Vaccarello explores the interplay of softness and power with the skill of a master, creating wearable art.

Rick Owens & metaphors

Rick Owens‘ fall 2023 collection challenges conventions and pushes the boundaries of fashion to offer a unique perspective on the industry and its role in our lives. The designer’s work explores both the beauty and darkness of the world, acknowledging the contradictions that exist within it. Owens’ collection features sequinned coats and gowns in lime green, pink, and silver through a nuanced approach, veering from one extreme to the next, with playful balloon jackets and feminine shredded Bordeaux trims on capes with shoulder pads. Owens also refreshed his body-con dresses and skirts in recycled cashmere. The collection’s editorial appeal is evident as designers have a duty to inspire and shield us from the world’s unknowns. 

Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli

The preview of the fall/winter 2023-24 collection was presented exclusively in a hotel in Place Vendôme, with both Marisa Berenson and Diego Della Valle expressing their satisfaction with the relaunch. It features a variety of silhouettes ranging from leggings to A-line shapes, print ramier, faces, and locksalmost all black. Roseberry explains he created a set of codes to build upon, including the launch of the new Schiap bag. There are plans to open in Los Angeles in May, followed by Tokyo and Dubai, with a partnership with Neiman Marcus in the USA.

Dries Van Noten & splendor

The Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2023 collection was showcased at the Dôme de Paris, a concert hall in the 15th arrondissement. The setting included a mirrored wall and a small stage at the center where Dries Van Noten himself was present. The show began with an experimental sound of tinkling bells that gradually evolved into complex and multiform rhythms. The collection featured gold as a dominant color, starting with embroideries on waistlines of pinstripe coats, and moving to metallic coatings that covered the front of blazers. The gold theme continued in high boots, glittering bags, and precious fabrics. The collection also showcased floral designs with trompe-l’œil effects in lace. The browns of autumn gave way to pinks and lilacs, reflecting a garden ready to blossom under a leaden sky.

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